Baku F1 a mind-blowing experience

To try and explain in words the brutal power of these chariots of the gods is akin to trying to hold back a tidal wave with a paper straw.
Jo-Mare Duddy Booysen
In a world dominated by the humdrum of day-to-day living, Formula One drags one kicking and screaming into the light.

I had the privilege of attending this past weekend's Baku Formula One race in Azerbaijan and I am still reeling from this mind-blowing experience. Having spent the previous week in Istanbul, my senses assailed by the sights, sounds and smells of this thriving metropolis, nothing could prepare me for the spectacle of speed that was waiting. A three-hour flight east from Istanbul brought me to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, on the bleak and grey shores of the largest lake in the world, better known as the Caspian Sea.

A three-hour flight south from Moscow, just to the right of Armenia and bordering Iran at its southern border, this tiny but powerful country is an absolute jewel in the crown of the Middle East, and is often referred to as the Monaco of this entire region.



Ferocious machines

The Baku F1 kicked into first gear on Friday, 26 April with the usual rounds of free practice starting late morning. The sound of 20 fearless drivers in their ferocious machines circumnavigating the narrow streets of the old city soon announced to all and sundry that the sport of kings had begun in all earnest.

The event was marred by an obtrusive and stubborn drain cover that ripped the undercarriage of Williams driver George Russel's car to shreds. But with only the organisers' pride injured and after a thorough check on the 300 remaining drain covers (remember, this is a street circuit), the track was declared safe and racing continued. French upstart Charles Leclerc, in his first season for Ferrari, posted the day's fastest lap time, a full two seconds faster than his teammate and four-time world champion Sebastian Vettel. And for those in the know, two seconds in F1 terms are an eternity.

The favourites, Mercedes-Benz drivers Lewis Hamilton and Valteri Botas, definitely took notice, but being the champions that they are Leclerc's achievement must have brought on only a sneer. Running with the old dogs, you have to be able to pee in the tall grass.



F1 faithful

Saturday broke with glorious sunshine and the thousands of F1 faithful could be seen patiently trudging in perfect lines through the gates to motoring Mecca. Relishing the ambience of the surroundings, I and the many others felt fully immersed in this most ancient of cities, the magic-carpet ride one of wide-eyed wonder and a deep appreciation for the Swiss-like timepiece execution in putting this whole event together.

Being a “lowly working-class hero” I could not afford a ticket to witness the qualifying rounds as a trackside spectator, but as fate would have it the Parkview Inn Radisson ran a “special” on Heineken. Only 10 Manat (N$90) each. So I settled in like the celebrity I am not, pulled up an armchair, and watched the qualifying rounds on the track in front of me, with a massive big-screen TV with live coverage to my right. Amazing what one Heineken at N$90 and a bit of suave attitude can buy.

And so it seemed the “old dogs” were right ... Charles Leclerc crashed spectacularly during qualifying, relegating him to start in tenth position on Sunday. Valteri Botas took pole position, followed by teammate Lewis Hamilton and Sebastian Vettel in third.



Race day

Sunday. Race day. A hearty breakfast at the hotel, a 5-Manat and 10-minute taxi ride with my new best friend, taxi driver Vugar Aliyev - also an historian, Azerbaijani and all-round good guy - and I was deposited at the entrance to the track. “Welcome to Baku, and enjoy your stay!” said the security official with a sincere smile and honest eyes. I was in, yes baby!

Being armed with only a Roaming Ticket (no Grand Stand for the needy) it did not take me long to find the perfect spot. Separated from certain death by only a fence and a low concrete barricade, I was ready to experience first-hand what no amount of TV coverage could possibly convey.

Excitement mounted and the tiny stand I tried to proclaim as my own was soon inundated by mobs of equally crazy speed freaks with the same feverish eyes.

Women, children, men with hair and men with none, we all congregated and waited for the sermon of speed to begin... and then... out of nowhere and without warning, the heavens opened and we were hit by a roar and a wall of sound. Magnificent!

To try and explain in words the brutal power of these chariots of the gods is akin to trying to hold back a tidal wave with a paper straw. Impossible.

Having followed F1 for years on television and being an avid Michael Schumacher fan, I was not prepared for the sheer violence of the N$200 million machines passing a scant 15 metres in front of me. Sounding more like a jet aeroplane than anything I have experienced on wheels before, I came to fully understand the enormity of this sport, and why once this F1 bug has bitten you it will never let go.



Leading the pack

The lead of the race was switched several times, the French upstart in his Ferrari leading the pack for a few laps. I watched Valteri Botas inching closer and closer, eventually overtaking the Ferrari, with the Mercedes of Lewis Hamilton following suit. The old dogs were pointing their cars a few hundreds of a second faster here, braking a bit later there, accelerating out of a corner a bit sooner, and choosing a truer line down the two-kilometre straight.

The race and wall of sound lasted for two hours. Stupendous. And then it was over.

Valteri Botas extended Mercedes's lead as the Silver Arrows secured their fourth consecutive one-two of the 2019 season, Lewis Hamilton came in second, Sebastian Vettel third, Max Verstappen, the Dutch darling driving for Red Bull, fourth. Charles Leclerc in his Ferrari took his third fifth place of the year and this in his first year for Ferrari. He also set a new lap record.

As light as my step was in arriving for race day, so heavy my feet dragged upon leaving the circuit. It was dusk, the orange-pink sky reflected softly on the faces of the Flame Towers.

The old city fell quiet again, and the F1 faithful returned home. The winner was not only Botas, but Baku, and a certain young French upstart on a prancing, red horse, epitomising the very spirit of Formula One. As-Salamu-Alaykum. Peace be upon you.

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Namibian Sun 2024-11-23

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